Saliato, 2006, Umbrian Red Wine Produced By Chiorri

Saliato 2006, Colli Perugini DOC

I bought this bottle along with a similar Umbrian Red, Rubbio 2008,  produced by Palazzone, and did a direct comparison between the wines. Both are a blend of Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, here are my tasting notes:

Saliato 2006, Colli Perugini DOC, produced by Chiorri, San Enea, Perugia, Umbria

Cost €10.90 from Enoteca Wine Club, Umbertide, Umbria, abv 14.5%

The label tells you that the wine is made from Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon and is aged in oak. The colour is intense ruby red with violet reflections. The bouquet is intense and persistent with fruity and oak aromas. The wine is suited to strongly flavoured dishes, red meat, game and mature cheese.

Saliato, An Umbrian Red Wine From Chiorri, Italy

On the nose it had a great bouquet; intense aromas of cloves, cinnamon and plum. The flavour lived up to the bouquet, delicious plum flavours and notable but soft tannin.

Verdict: Good quality / price balance, buy again.

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Red Wine From Umbria, Rubbio 2008 By Palazzone

Rubbio 2008, Umbria IGT

This red wine comes from near Orvieto, more famous for the white Orvieto Classico. I bought it together with another red, Salito, 2006 Colli Perugino, DOC. Both are blends of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot so they made good wines to compare.

Rubbio 2008, Umbria IGT, Produced by Palazzone

Cost €9.90 from Enoteca Wine Club, Umbertide, Umbria, abv 13.5%

The back label tells you that the wine is made from Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. The grapes are harvested by hand and matured for 8 months in barrels of varying sizes. The colour is dense ruby red, the aromas are fragrant on the nose, it has a lively taste with the tannin and acidity matching each other accompanied by an appreciable body.

Rubbio 2008, Umbria IGT, by Palazzone, Red Wine From Umbria Italy

On the nose the wine had cherry and cinnamon aromas. In the mouth it had cherry flavours and soft tannin, it was nicely rounded and pleasant to drink but lacked a definitive character.

Verdict: With a bit more time in the bottle it will probably develop some more personality. For now you are better spending an extra euro on the second wine, Sailto, 2006 made by Chiorri.

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Lunch At Del Carmine Trattoria, Florence, Tuscany

Del Carmine, Florence, Tuscany

After visiting Masaccio’s Frescoes In The Brancacci Chapel on our Visit To Florence, Tuscany last week, we wandered over the piazza and had lunch in the del Carmine trattoria. Despite being late October, it was still warm enough to eat outside so we sat at a table on the verandah at the front.

Eating At Del Carmine Trattoria Florence Tuscany

We weren’t hungry enough for a full blown Italian lunch so we ordered dishes from the primi piatti part of the menu.

Nun With A Bike Outside Del Carmine Trattoria, Florence. Tuscany

I ordered this delicious pumpkin risotto, everyone agreed that it was the best dish we tried.

Pumpkin Risotto At Del Carmine Trattoria, Florence Tuscany

The others had risotto with funghi porcini.

Porcini Risotto At Trattoria Del Carmine, Florence, Tuscany

pasta with salmon and cream.

Pennette With Salmon, Trattoria Del Carmine, Florence Tuscany

and tagliatelle with porcini.

tuscany

Porcini Tagliatelle At Trattoria Del Carmine, Florence, Tuscany, Italy

Afterwards, those who weren’t driving (i.e. not me!) had a glass of very smooth grappa, this seemed to add an extra element of fun to our afternoon of sightseeing!

Grappa, Trattoria Del Carmine, Florence, Tuscany Italy

Judging from the superb quality of the dishes, the service and the final bill of €70 for four dishes, two salads, one bowl of fried potatoes, wine, coffee and grappa, del Carmine is a great place to eat if you are in Florence. Its position on the Oltrarno (south of the River Arno) means that it is just off the beaten track for the year round crowds that visit this beautiful city.

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Tuscany Farmhouse With Swimming Pool

Tuscany Farmhouse With Swimming Pool

Montone, Umbria, Festa Del Bosco

The Festa Del Bosco In Montone

On the last weekend in October the beautiful hill town of Montone, close to where I live on the Tuscany Umbria border, holds its annual Festa del Bosco (Festa of the Woods), a celebration of fungi, chestnuts, wine, olive oil and artisan producers of food, clothing and other goods. The setting in the medieval streets of Montone and the lively atmosphere make this one of my favourite festivals, I always come back with a lot of delicacies to try at home.

Drummers, Festa del Bosco, Montone, Umbria, Italy

There are always several manufacturers of Umbrian truffle products dotted around the town. This stall had fresh truffles as well as the usual jars of truffle pastes and bottles of truffle flavoured olive oil.

Truffles, Festa del Bosco, Montone Umbria Italy

I love stocking up on honey from the beekeepers, this stall had a hive in a glass fronted case. As well as chestnut flower honey I bought a tincture with propoli (a natural antibiotic) and some honey comb that you can spread on toast like normal honey.

Bees, Montone Festa Del Bosco, Umbria Italy

At this pecrorino (sheep’s) cheese stall I saw a cheese covered in the solids left after red wine is pressed, the cheese is called “Ubriacone” (very drunk) but I was disappointed to find that it didn’t taste of wine!

Pecorino Ubriacone, Montone Festa Del Bosco, Umbria Italy

Pecorino Cheese, Montone Festa Del Bosco, Umbria Italy

At this stall an organic wine maker from the small Umbrian town of Casa del Diavolo (House of the Devil) near Perugia was offering tastings of his wines.

Wine Tasting, Montone Festa Del Bosco, Umbria Italy

I brought back a bottle of the red and will post the notes on the blog as soon as I try it, it was a little bit cold in this room to appreciate it properly.

Chestnut Roasting, Montone Festa Del Bosco, Umbria Italy

It’s almost obligatory to have roast chestnuts at an autumn festival in Umbria.

Basket Weaving, Montone Festa Del Bosco, Umbria Italy

If you need a wood basket, this Festa is the place to find one!

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Masaccio’s Frescoes, Brancacci Chapel, Florence, Tuscany

Masaccio, Cappella Brancacci, Santa Maria del Carmine

On our Visit To Florence, Tuscany last week we visited frescoes by Masaccio in the Brancacci Chapel in the church of Santa Maria del Carmine. Masaccio (Big Tom) has left two great works of art in Florence, the Holy Trinity in the church of Santa Maria Novella and the Life Of St Peter in the Brancacci Chapel.

The commission for the Brancacci Chapel was won by Masaccio’s teacher, Masolino (Little Tom), but soon after starting work Masolino was called away to Hungary where he was the official court painter. Masaccio continued working in the Brancacci Chapel and it was soon evident that his work surpassed his teacher’s. His figures were strongly influenced by the sculpture of Donatello and his buildings by the architecture of early 15th Century Florence, Masaccio’s painting was an artistic revolution that was to influence many of the Renaissance’s leading figures including Michelangelo.

Detail Of Jesus In Masaccio's Tribute Money, Brancacci Chapel, Florence, Tuscany

Masaccio avoided over elaboration in his paintings, for example, look at the barren landscape in St. Peter Pays The Tribute Money, this allows the viewer to concentrate on the solid figures in the foreground.  His concentration on perspective, landscape and the effect of light were the factors that put him apart from  previous painters.

In 1428, four years into the project, both painters were called away to Rome and Masaccio died the same year, leaving the frescoes unfinished. Fifty years later Filippino Lippi, son of Fra Filippo Lippi and a pupil of Botticelli finished the frescoes in a style so sympathetic to Masaccio that it is sometimes hard to tell who painted which panel.

Masaccio, The Expulsion, Florence, Tuscany

The first and last frescoes allow a direct comparison of Masolino and Masaccio’s work.

The Expulsion by Masaccio, Brancacci Chapel, Florence, Tuscany

Masaccio’s work shows the emotion in the face of Eve as she is expelled from paradise, whilst Adam tries to hide his face, the figures are strongly three dimensional.

The Temptation, Masolino, Brancacci Chapel, Florence, Tuscany

In contrast Masolino’s Temptation shows more elongated figures with smaller heads.

Masaccio, The Tribute Money, Florence, Tuscany

St Peter Pays The Tribute Money shows three scenes simultaneously, the tax inspector confronting Jesus and the disciples is shown in the middle of the painting, this group of figures can be imagined as a sculpture of contemporary Florence, the folds in the disciples robes are repeated in the rocky landscape behind them. On the left Peter takes a coin from a fish’s mouth and on the right he gives it to the tax inspector.

The Tribute Money by Masaccio, Brancacci Chapel, Florence, Tuscany

Masaccio, St Peter Healing With His Shadow, Florence, Tuscany

St Peter Healing With His Shadow uses a medieval Florentine street as the setting, lit from the right of the painting. The left to right perspective ties in neatly with the fresco’s actual position within the chapel. As St Peter’s shadow falls on a crippled boy to the left, he is miraculously healed. It is thought that the man at the back in the red hat could be a portrait of the sculptor Donatello.

St Peter Healing With His Shadow, Masaccio, Brancacci Chapel, Florence Tuscany

Masaccio, The Death Of Ananias, Florence, Tuscany

People Giving Their Goods To St. Peter And The Death Of Ananias has the opposite right to left perspective which, again, is perfectly suited to the painting’s position to the right of the Chapel’s altar. This scene shows Ananias struck dead for refusing to give up alms for the poor.

Distribution Of Alms & the Death of Ananias. Masaccio, Brancacci Chapel, Florence Tuscany

Raising of Theophilius’s Son and St. Peter Enthroned, Masaccio, Florence Tuscany

The main panel below the Tribute Money was started by Masaccio before he left for Rome and finished by Filippino Lippi, this shows the Raising of Theophilius’s Son and St. Peter Enthroned. The three figures to the right of the throne are thought to be portraits of Masaccio, Brunelleschi (architect of the cathedral dome) and Alberti (author of the book On Painting, which set out the rules for perspective, architect and all-round Renaissance Man).

Raising of Theophilius' Son & St Peter Enthroned, Masaccio, Brancacci Chapel, Florence, Tuscany

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You can easily visit Florence and Masaccio’s frescoes in the Brancacci Chapel when you holiday in vacation accommodation on the beautiful Tuscany Umbria border. This stunning part of central Italy has easy access to most of the towns of Tuscany and Umbria and makes a great base for exploring these regions. Gorgacce Rentals tuscanyumbria.com have a superb choice of  Tuscany vacation rental property in this area. Look at our website for a Holiday Villa To Rent In Tuscany and Umbria, a Tuscany Farmhouse With Swimming Pool or Tuscany Agritourism Apartments With Pool.

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A Visit To Florence, Tuscany

Florence, Tuscany

We have friends staying and yesterday we took them to Florence, the capital of Tuscany and centre of the Renaissance. There are so many things to see in Florence that unless you spend a few days there, it’s best to choose one or two museums or churches and combine it with a walk around the fascinating city centre. Otherwise you could be at risk from Stendhal’s Syndrome, dizziness and palpitations brought on by overexposure to the wealth of artistic treasures that Florence has to offer!

We left our car in the Porta Romana car park, one of many  that surround Florence’s city-centre, only vehicles with special passes can enter the traffic limited “centro storico”.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Florence Poses With Book, Unforgettable Florence

Brancacci Chapel, Florence, Tuscany

Within a few minutes’ walk we were in the Piazza della Carmine on the south side of the River Arno where the church of Santa Maria del Carmine is located. The Brancacci Chapel within the church houses one of the most important fresco cycles in Florence, the life of St. Peter by Masaccio, Masolino and Filippino Lippi.

Masaccio may not be as familiar a name as many other Renaissance painters, but he was certainly one of the most important in terms of art history. His pictures were the first to be painted in true perspective and heralded the start of the Renaissance in Florence. Masaccio died aged 27 and, although he influenced a generation of artists, is not the “household” name he would undoubtedly be had he lived a little longer. This does have advantages for the visitor to Florence, the Brancacci Chapel can often be accessed  without queueing and the stunning frescoes admired at leisure.

Masolino di Panicale (1383-1447) was given the commission in 1424 and brought along his young assistant Masaccio (1401-1428). Masolino left for  Hungary and left Masaccio to work on the frescoes, returning in 1427 to find that his pupil was now the better painter. Both painters were called to Rome in 1428 leaving the frescoes unfinished. Half a century later, Filippino Lippi (son of Fra Filippo Lippi), completed the frescoes in a style sympathetic to Masaccio. The frescoes were restored in the 1980’s and early 1990’s so the colours are incredibly vivid.

Read more about Masaccio & the Brancacci Chapel

After a late start it was already time for lunch, crossing the Piazza del Carmine, we came across Trattoria Del Carmine. We had a superb selection of primi piatti (first courses), the best of which was the pumpkin risotto.

Ponte Vecchio, Florence Tuscany

Lunch completed, and with so many possibilities and limited time, we crossed the Ponte Vecchio, one of our party almost buying gold earrings in one of the jewellery shops that line the bridge.

Palazzo Vecchio & Piazza Della Signoria, Florence Tuscany

We strolled past Florence’s world famous art gallery, the Uffizi, and into the Piazza della Signoria. The old town hall, the Palazzo Vecchio, is the model for many civic buildings in Tuscany, see my posts on Montepulciano and Pienza.

There are many statues in the square including a reproduction of Michelangelo’s David (the real one is in the Accademia museum). Originally the David was kept here but it was moved to the Accademia in order to protect it. The David was originally made to go on top of the Duomo, Florence’s Cathedral, his enormous hands would look more in proportion if viewed from far below. David, the giant slayer symbolised the Florentine Republic’s constant struggle for freedom.

We continued through narrow streets past the strange looking church of Orsanmichele with its sculptures (now replicas) in niches along the exterior walls by Donatello, Brunelleschi and Ghiberti amongst others.

Orsanmichele, Florence, Tuscany

Duomo, Florence, Tuscany

Arriving in the Piazza del Duomo we were struck by the sheer size of the Duomo with its impressive facade and the huge dome, built by Brunelleschi between 1423 and 1436 to a radical self supporting design.

Giotto's Belltower and the Dome of Florence Cathedral

There was time for a look at the famous bronze doors of the baptistry and then we entered the vast interior of the Duomo.

Detail Of Ghiberti's East Door To The Baptistry, Florence Tuscany

We stopped for a look at Paolo Uccello’s equestrian monument to Sir John Hawkswood, an English mercenary who had been in the employ of the Florentines. This picture is peculiar in that the rider and horse are painted viewed from side on, whereas the plinth on which they stand is painted in perspective as if you are looking from below. One explanation is that he had to repaint when it became clear that the horse’s genitalia occupied a prominent part of the painting viewed from below.

Paolo Uccello, Equestrian Monument To Sir John Hawkswood, Florence, Tuscany

After looking at the dome’s interior, we had run out of time and energy and it was time to head back through the streets of Florence.

Under The Dome, Florence Cathedral, Tuscany

I would have liked to have seen more of this beautiful city but our late start and one small child meant that we really had done enough for one day. Back at the car at 5 o’clock we headed out of Florence before the main rush hour began. If the traffic is good you can be in the centre of Florence two hours after leaving our base on the Tuscany Umbria border. I will definitely be returning to Florence soon!

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Lunch At L’Appennino, Umbertide, Umbria

Eating Out On The Tuscany Umbria Border

Last week we went out for a very pleasant lunch at L’Appennino restaurant in the old part of Umbertide, our local town in Umbria.

While we chose our dishes we were served tasty appetisers and a selection of bread rolls made in the restaurant.

We selected several dishes from each part of the menu although none of us went for the complete meal of antipasti, primi, secondi and dessert. This interesting sounding dish of popcorn and chickpea puree was from the antipasti (starter) menu and apparently was delicious!

Another dish from the antipasti menu was the filo pastry parcels filled with percorino cheese and served with threads of saffron and fava bean puree, I’d tried this the last time we ate at L’Appennino and remember it was good.

I chose gnocchi with aubergine puree and fried pancetta from the primi menu. This was a great combination of flavours and afterwards I realised I sometimes make a similar pasta at home with chili, cubed aubergine, tomatoes and pancetta.

I tried a little of this pasta with fresh truffles, it was superb. Others went for tagliatelle with funghi porcini.

From the secondi menu we chose Chiannina beef tagliata (grilled and sliced) and roast quail.

Unlike many Italian restaurants, L’Appennino serve their second course with the vegetables included.

For dessert my daughter chose this tasty fruit and meringue sweet.

The meal was accompanied by the restaurant’s house wine, the amusingly named Rosso Bastardo, made in the Umbrian town of the same name.

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Farmhouse Accommodation Tuscany – Casa Primula

Tuscany Farmhouse Accommodation With Swimming Pool

Casa Primula is a Farmhouse on the Tuscany Umbria border with a swimming pool. Located just on the Tuscan side of the border, this four bedroom farmhouse has views across the beautiful Niccone Valley and looks down on the striking ruin of Pierle Castle, which once guarded the entrance to the Valley. It is a twenty five minute drive to the famous hill town of Cortona in Tuscany and Lake Trasimeno in Umbria.

Casa Primula, Tuscany Farmhouse Accommodation

Casa Primula, a farmhouse in Tuscany has four bedrooms but has accommodation for up to ten with the use of a sofa bed. It’s location high above the valley makes it a tranquil hideaway for your holiday; should you wish, you can simply relax by the swimming pool and enjoy the fantastic scenery. You can also use the farmhouse as a base for touring most of Tuscany and Umbria.

Casa Primula, Tuscany FarmhouseWith Swimming Pool

Tuscany Farmhouse Accomodation

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Eurochocolate, Perugia, Umbria

Perugia, Umbria, Chocolate Festival

Perugia, the capital of Umbria has long been known for chocolate production and the famous “baci” (kisses) produced by the Perugina chocolate factory. Although now owned by Nestle, Baci are still produced under the Perugina brand and each October, the city centre hosts an event known as Eurochocolate.

Delicious Chocolate, Perugia, Umbria

We went along for a look around last night, there were lots of stalls in the medieval city centre selling some delicious looking chocolates.

Chocolate Themed Climbing Wall, Perugia, Umbria

There was even a chocolate themed climbing wall at the far end of the Corso Vannucci.

More Chocolates, Perugia, Umbria

After a few samples (in particular some superb chocolate truffles) and a small bar  of chilli flavoured chocolate, I had had my fill, but we stocked up on a few novelty chocolate presents, including chocolate tagliatelle.

Our Haul Of Chocolate Novelty Presents, Perugia, Umbria

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Whatever your budget and the size of your party, we have holidays in Tuscany villas suitable for you, we have Tuscany Luxury Holiday Villas, Accommodation For Farm Holidays in Tuscany, Cheap Accommodation in Tuscany, Tuscany Farmhouse Holidays, and Tuscany Agritourism.

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Wine Tasting, An Evening Of Umbrian Wine

Our group wine tasters decided to meet together at Ca’ di Bracco, our Farmhouse on the Tuscany Umbria border and sample several Umbrian wines. We tried two Super Umbrians (high quality wines using grape blends not usual for Umbria), three  different Montefalco Sagrantinos and just for good measure a, bottle of Barolo that one of the group had waiting for a good opportunity to drink.

We started with a bottle of Super Umbrian:

Tegolaro IGT 2006, produced by Carlo & Marco Carini near Perugia, Italy

Cost €22 from Enoteca Wine Club, Umbertide, abv 14%

Carlo and Marco Carini make an excellent Colli Trasimeno selling for around €8, so I was very interested to see how good their more expensive red could be.

Tegolaro, Wine From Umbria

Irritatingly, but not unexpectedly, there is no information on the label about grape varieties or in fact how the wine was made, other than to say that it has not been filtered and may have a natural deposit. An internet search reveals that this wine is made from Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese grapes. At this price, however, it’s fairly safe to assume it’s had a significant period aging in oak barrels.

In the glass it had a lovely dark red colour, which looked very promising. On the nose there were intense notes of vanilla and red fruit – plums and cherries. In the mouth the initial flavours were good and matched nicely by the tannin. However, the wine was badly let down by the finish which was over very quickly. All that initial promise had led us to expect more from this one, we were left feeling a little deflated.

Verdict: With a disappointing finish like this, the wine is overpriced, a shame as I am a great advocate of their cheaper red.

It was on to the first of the Sagrantino di Montefalco wines, produced by Di Filippo

Sagrantino di Montefalco DOCG, 2005, produced by Di Filippo, Cannara, Perugia

Cost around €20 From Enoteca Wine Club, Umbertide, Umbria, abv 14.5%

No label information, but we know it must be 100% Sagrantino grapes aged for at least 12 months in oak and released 3 years after production.

Di Filippo, Sagrantino di Montefalco, Umbrian Wine

The colour of the wine was a beautiful dark red. On the nose it was not so intense, but there was acetone and the sweet spice aromas of oak aging. In the mouth it had decisive tannins with a balance tending towards the hard side, still, a most pleasant wine.

Verdict: We liked this one but thought it would be great to lay down for a few more years and see how it softens.

The second Sagrantino was produced by Rocca di Fabbri

Sagrantino di Montefalco DOCG, 2004, produced by Rocca di Fabbri, Montefalco, Umbria

Cost €18 abv 14%

No label information.

In the glass this wine had a deep, opaque ruby red colour. On the nose it smelled of plums and other dried fruits mingling with intense spice. In the mouth it was ready to drink, soft tannins and a beautiful balance.

Rocca di Fabbri, Sagrantino di Montefalco, Wine FromUmbria

Verdict: You can get the Sagrantino experience with this wine now rather than having to imagine how the wine will taste when it has softened.

The next wine was a Montefalco Sagrantino produced by Scacciadiavoli (literally squashed devils!)

Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG 2004, Produced by Scacciadiavoli, Montefalco, Umbria

Cost €18 from Enoteca Wine Club, Umbertide, Umbria, abv 14.5%

Again, no information on the label but we know that it must be made from 100% Sagrantino grapes and aged in oak for at least a year.

The colour was a little orange around the edges, suggesting that this particular Sagrantino had not undergone a heavy dose of oak aging. The bouquet had tobacco, sweet spice and red fruit. In he mouth it had lovely smooth tannins, matching the fruit and spice flavours, beautifully balanced.

Scacciadiavoli, Montefalco Sagrantino, Umbria, Italy

Verdict: Very enjoyable, the soft tannin suggests that this particular Sagrantino is not suited to a long aging, but for most wine drinkers, who tend to be on the impatient side, this may not be such a bad thing.

For the next wine we went on to a Barolo

Cordero di Montezemolo, Barolo DOCG 1999 Vigna Enrico IV produced by Giovanni and Erico Cordero di Montezemolo

Cost Unknown abv 14.5%

No information on the label.

The colour of this wine was dull red, showing it’s 10 year age. On the nose it smelled of fruit, acetone and spice, not much different from many Umbrian wines we have tried. In the mouth this wine had a lot of character and had great balance, however, as you can imagine, by now my note taking was beginning to get a little haphazard. I do remember it was very good though.

Finally we moved on the last Umbrian red, a Super Umbrian by the producer Adanti.

Arquata, Rosso Dell’ Umbria IGT, 2003, Produced by Adanti, Bevagna, Umbria

Cost around €18 from Enoteca Wine Club, Umbertide

The label tells you that the wine is made from Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Barbera. Aged in wood for two years and in the bottle for a further year before release, it will continue to improve for around six more years in the bottle.

Arquata, Rosso dell' Umbria Produced by Adanti

I didn’t note the colour but the intense aromas were of cinnamon, blackberries, alcohol and acetone. In the mouth it had lovely rounded tannins with lovely fruit / spice flavours.

Verdict: A beautiful wine, it’s late appearance in the evening means my notes don’t do it justice.

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