Florence, Tuscany
We have friends staying and yesterday we took them to Florence, the capital of Tuscany and centre of the Renaissance. There are so many things to see in Florence that unless you spend a few days there, it’s best to choose one or two museums or churches and combine it with a walk around the fascinating city centre. Otherwise you could be at risk from Stendhal’s Syndrome, dizziness and palpitations brought on by overexposure to the wealth of artistic treasures that Florence has to offer!
We left our car in the Porta Romana car park, one of many that surround Florence’s city-centre, only vehicles with special passes can enter the traffic limited “centro storico”.

Florence Poses With Book, Unforgettable Florence
Brancacci Chapel, Florence, Tuscany
Within a few minutes’ walk we were in the Piazza della Carmine on the south side of the River Arno where the church of Santa Maria del Carmine is located. The Brancacci Chapel within the church houses one of the most important fresco cycles in Florence, the life of St. Peter by Masaccio, Masolino and Filippino Lippi.

Masaccio may not be as familiar a name as many other Renaissance painters, but he was certainly one of the most important in terms of art history. His pictures were the first to be painted in true perspective and heralded the start of the Renaissance in Florence. Masaccio died aged 27 and, although he influenced a generation of artists, is not the “household” name he would undoubtedly be had he lived a little longer. This does have advantages for the visitor to Florence, the Brancacci Chapel can often be accessed without queueing and the stunning frescoes admired at leisure.

Masolino di Panicale (1383-1447) was given the commission in 1424 and brought along his young assistant Masaccio (1401-1428). Masolino left for Hungary and left Masaccio to work on the frescoes, returning in 1427 to find that his pupil was now the better painter. Both painters were called to Rome in 1428 leaving the frescoes unfinished. Half a century later, Filippino Lippi (son of Fra Filippo Lippi), completed the frescoes in a style sympathetic to Masaccio. The frescoes were restored in the 1980’s and early 1990’s so the colours are incredibly vivid.

Read more about Masaccio & the Brancacci Chapel
After a late start it was already time for lunch, crossing the Piazza del Carmine, we came across Trattoria Del Carmine. We had a superb selection of primi piatti (first courses), the best of which was the pumpkin risotto.

Ponte Vecchio, Florence Tuscany
Lunch completed, and with so many possibilities and limited time, we crossed the Ponte Vecchio, one of our party almost buying gold earrings in one of the jewellery shops that line the bridge.

Palazzo Vecchio & Piazza Della Signoria, Florence Tuscany
We strolled past Florence’s world famous art gallery, the Uffizi, and into the Piazza della Signoria. The old town hall, the Palazzo Vecchio, is the model for many civic buildings in Tuscany, see my posts on Montepulciano and Pienza.

There are many statues in the square including a reproduction of Michelangelo’s David (the real one is in the Accademia museum). Originally the David was kept here but it was moved to the Accademia in order to protect it. The David was originally made to go on top of the Duomo, Florence’s Cathedral, his enormous hands would look more in proportion if viewed from far below. David, the giant slayer symbolised the Florentine Republic’s constant struggle for freedom.

We continued through narrow streets past the strange looking church of Orsanmichele with its sculptures (now replicas) in niches along the exterior walls by Donatello, Brunelleschi and Ghiberti amongst others.

Orsanmichele, Florence, Tuscany
Duomo, Florence, Tuscany
Arriving in the Piazza del Duomo we were struck by the sheer size of the Duomo with its impressive facade and the huge dome, built by Brunelleschi between 1423 and 1436 to a radical self supporting design.

Giotto's Belltower and the Dome of Florence Cathedral
There was time for a look at the famous bronze doors of the baptistry and then we entered the vast interior of the Duomo.

Detail Of Ghiberti's East Door To The Baptistry, Florence Tuscany
We stopped for a look at Paolo Uccello’s equestrian monument to Sir John Hawkswood, an English mercenary who had been in the employ of the Florentines. This picture is peculiar in that the rider and horse are painted viewed from side on, whereas the plinth on which they stand is painted in perspective as if you are looking from below. One explanation is that he had to repaint when it became clear that the horse’s genitalia occupied a prominent part of the painting viewed from below.

Paolo Uccello, Equestrian Monument To Sir John Hawkswood, Florence, Tuscany
After looking at the dome’s interior, we had run out of time and energy and it was time to head back through the streets of Florence.

Under The Dome, Florence Cathedral, Tuscany
I would have liked to have seen more of this beautiful city but our late start and one small child meant that we really had done enough for one day. Back at the car at 5 o’clock we headed out of Florence before the main rush hour began. If the traffic is good you can be in the centre of Florence two hours after leaving our base on the Tuscany Umbria border. I will definitely be returning to Florence soon!
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Tags: Art, Brancacci, Eating, Florence, Food, Holiday, Holiday Villa Rent Tuscany, Holidays, Italian Art, Italy, italy villas, Masaccio, Renaissance Art, Rental, rental villa, Rentals, Restaurant, Travel, Tuscany, Tuscany Agritourism, Tuscany Apartments With Pool, Tuscany Farmhouse Holidays, Tuscany Farmhouse With Swimming Pool, tuscany villas, Umbria, umbria villas, Villa Rentals, Villas
November 1, 2009 at 14:34 |
[...] About Tuscany & Umbria Places to visit and things to do when renting a holiday villa, farmhouse or apartment in Tuscany & Umbria. For information about holiday rentals on the beautiful Tuscany Umbria border visit Gorgacce Rental’s website: http://www.tuscanyumbria.com/ « A Visit To Florence, Tuscany [...]
November 9, 2009 at 22:56 |
[...] visiting Masaccio’s Frescoes In The Brancacci Chapel on our Visit To Florence, Tuscany last week, we wandered over the piazza and had lunch in the del Carmine trattoria. Despite being [...]